Miracle biography

An ordinary miracle photo: Evgeny Kostin if you ask on the streets of Moscow, what dish in Dagestan is the main thing, for sure nine out of ten will answer that barbecue. After all, the All-Russian idea of ​​the Caucasus was the influence of Danelia and Pirosmani's films, in which the life of the highlander is the papachi, caps aerodromes, lezginka and an endless feast with friends at a long table, strewn with shampoos.

Tamada pronounces a colorful toast, silver horns with wine are overturned in a swing, and all in chorus pull a song about Suliko. The picture is so stable that even the former tourism Minister Dagestan Magomed Isaev, who said in an interview with TASS, bought it: “If you come to the mountain aul, they immediately find out that the guest arrived. And the whole village will gather, old people will come, songs, dances will begin, they will set the table.

” Reality is not so popular, but more interesting. The head of the Sufi community - Islamic mystics, whose zyra - rites of remembrance of God, are called, is called the Tamada in the North Caucasus - without haraming wine. The whole village sets the tables and meets the guest only if it is a minister, but communication in the evening with the family is much more pleasant than the official meeting.

The famous village of Jewelers Gotsatl earns in the production of horns for wine, although the sale of alcohol is long forbidden there. And most importantly - a chance to stumble in Dagestan on barbecue a little more than in the suburbs. They cook them well, but rarely eat. The heart of mountain cuisine is all kinds of flour products. And if the khinkal scares away many with its brutality, Caucasian pies and cakes are an international hit, whose popularity is growing both in Moscow and in Istanbul.

No wonder in the old days the Dagestanis paid them for learning the Qur'an, and Ossetians still use them in sacred rites - this cuisine is truly divine. Dagestan cakes with filling are called a miracle. Under this short name hides a wonderful diversity. Other eccentricians are not more similar to each other than Bolonka - to a wolfhound. There are few of them: all of them are baked in a dry pan and oil are already lubricated in the finished form.

Almost every miracle wins if you add fried onions and caraway seeds to the filling. Also benefit thyme, mint, walnut grass or grated nuts. A little sugar is added to sweet cakes, pepper and salt in unsweetened. And the tradition orders to put a chopped kurdyuk in a miracle. However, the current housewives often replace it with stomped oil, sour cream, a pair of spoons of broth, or even completely ignore - follow the figure.

As a sauce, they often use sweet linen urbech - even if we are talking about cakes with giblets. I group them according to the method to seal the shell. Perhaps most often this is done as follows: the filling is laid out on half a thin circle of dough - usually wheat - and covered with the second half. Then the edges are chopped with a pigtail if a miracle is thick or flattened and cut off with a knife for pizza.

According to this principle, both cakes in the western part of the republic and Lezgi Afars are prepared. The main difference is that the Avar miracle is small, it is convenient to fry them in a pan, while the Afars sometimes reach a meter in diameter and bake in special furnaces called Hyar or in the oven. Only the thinnest are sometimes prepared on the sars - convex metal disks strengthened above the bonfire.

This division is typical for Dagestan cuisine, where the laconicism of the rocky mountains of the West contrasts with the colorful redundancy of the fertile valleys of the south, which, in addition, experienced a strong influence of the Sibaritian Persia. The filling for thin cakes is universal and is found both in a miracle of other types and in the kitchen of other Caucasian republics: ruble fresh or dried meat, grated, grated packets add walnuts or mint, and residents of Derbent - barberry, sometimes gibs with milk whey, cheese or cottage cheese.

The latter outside the region is the most difficult to play: few people have enough patience to find natural milk, let it properly sour and withstand the finished product for several days in a dark dry place. If someone accompanies this feat, it is better to use a precious filling on a miracle of a different type: to tighten the ball from cottage cheese with an admixture of potatoes with a thin layer of dough and roll it into a thin pancake.

Sogratlinians call such cakes barkal, and Chokhsy - boot. The filling of Afars is much more diverse. Cottage cheese with eggs, stewed cabbage, radish, chopped meat with potatoes, sorrel with kefir, a mixture of spinach, dandelion, onion and raw eggs with a pinch of grated cheese, cottage cheese with horse sorrel, stewed nettles with boiled half -boo, onion and oil, fried millet with cable, thyme and thyme and thyme and thyme Kurdyuka, fibers of chicken breast with wheat porridge, cooked on salted broth from the same chicken ...

Photo: Vladimir Sevrinovsky baking of the Afars but even such Afars - dwarfs in comparison with mighty brothers, representatives of the family of pies, in which two unequal layers are made from the dough: it is laid down on the large one, it is closed smaller, and then both of them are closed. Upstairs and pinch with a beautiful pigtail.The center is made for the output of the steam, and if the pie is especially large, also dozens of tiny holes.

For this, a bunch of bird feathers is used. With their help, a mixture of eggs and chopped cottage cheese is applied to the surface of the pie - so it is better browned. As a rule, the aphara is round or oval, but there are square and even triangular. Such pies are common throughout South Dagestan, and in each nation they are overgrown with certain traditions. For example, in the Tabasaran village of Dyubek, grandmother was preparing for seven sons and uncountable grandchildren a pies-Bogatyr, barely placed on the table.

It was impossible to eat it right away - he exuded the heat, like a small sun. Each relative, starting with the elders, chose the piece he liked and bent the upper layer of the dough, exposing the filling. Nobody again touched such “booked” pieces, and the cheerful family waited until they cooled, having fun with a leisurely conversation. The Dargins, as it should be the most entrepreneurial inhabitants of the republic, are not inferior to neighbors, sometimes building giant miracles, which to feed the whole house.

And although the Makhachkala cafe is mainly prepared by classics - meat with potato plates, cable and raw eggs, true mastodons from cooking are found in the mountains. So, in the village of Urkara, a pie heights of six centimeters high, in fact, is an edible pan, where large pieces of chicken are stewed, overlapped and flooded with broth - which is periodically added through the central hole.

The upper layer of dough is removed from the finished pie, broken and dipped in the "soup". Photo: Evgeny Kostin Laksa, not prone to culinary gigantomania, and here they take it not in size, but with skill. Their branded pies are called Kyachi. They are usually given the shape of an oval - a pair of a pair and a length of twenty centimeters. The filling is standard for a meat miracle: a chopped lamb or beef with a bow and caminet.

The main difference is that the meat is pre -marinated in acidic milk serum. This liquid sometimes stands on the table so that the meal participants can pour it with a pie. The only Dagestan representative of the family of multi -layer pies is the Lezghinsky CAN. It is more often prepared from chopped meat best - a fat lamb, with which potato records, fried onions, chopped walnuts and thyme are mixed.

The dough is made according to the same principle as layered bread. Cook four bun - two more, for the outer layers, and two smaller ones. Cover with matter and leave to rest for 20 minutes, and then rolled out for the pie. The filling is laid out in layers - usually in three, between which thin circles of dough are placed. The edges are pinned. The CCA is lubricated on top with oil and pierced in several places with a fork up to the lower layer.

A pie is baked for about an hour in a traditional furnace or in an ordinary oven at a temperature of degrees. After 20 minutes, the fire must be slightly reduced, and the top is greeted again with oil. After another twenty minutes - grease with egg yolk you can add pieces of cottage cheese. To check the readiness of potatoes, the pie can be pierced with a toothpick. If the filling is damp, and the hour has already passed, it is recommended to cover the top of the pie with foil before the end of the baking.

The ready -made CCAN is wrapped in matter and let it stand for about half an hour. Photo: Evgeny Kostin The following category of cakes - with a filling from the dough. They are popular among Kumyks who call them Chiy-Chuda. Prepare this dish in two ways. The second option - the wheat dough is mixed with the filling, and the cake is baked without a shell. If you suddenly drown butter, add corn flour to the container.

The oil will turn out cleaner, and with a sediment, the flour of the cake is much tastier than usual - and exudes the aroma of forgotten traditions. Finally, the last category of the miracle is open. They are the closest relatives of Italian pizza and Khachapuri in Ajar. Lezgins call this dish Shakuka, or Alyga. It is prepared simply: a dense dough, implicated on the egg and milk serum, is laid out on a baking sheet in the shape of a circle with high sides.

Gently pierce it over the entire area with a bunch of feathers or fork. We send to the furnace or to the preheated oven for 5 minutes, then we take it out with an even layer, to the sides, put the filling - cottage cheese or grated hard cheese mixed with eggs and green onions. We bake for about 15 minutes at a temperature of degrees. When the edges were browned, Shakuka is ready.

Other open miracles are prepared in the same style. For example, with a brutal mixture of fengran, sugar, chopped currred and a small amount of water. Before baking, the resulting gruel is recommended to insist for several days in a cool place. Alas, while Dagestan cakes win Moscow, Italian pizza survives them from their own home. Shakuki arrogant relative is prepared everywhere, even in small kiosks, on which sometimes the McDonald's logo is adjacent to the KFC emblem.

Now people are capricious. Grinkle that it was tastier in childhood. But is it that they grew up, the cook is to blame? Young Dagestanis still love flour, but prefers not a miracle, but pizza. Even my children ask her at home.Photo: Zuhra Bijiev Shakuk to a miracle, however, there is no debt remained and brings a response. A modest rural shakuk is surrounded by jewelry made of tomatoes chopped by circles, multi -colored peppers, other vegetables and herbs.

In the metropolitan restaurant, cakes are filled with four varieties of European cheeses. Champions of traditions sigh, but for me such experiments are only for the better. Potato came to the region by historical standards recently, and now it is difficult to imagine without potato miracles and soups.